ARSON AROUND with Auntie A.L.F.
[Although this is about
saving the lives of animals by destroying places that sell animal fur
etc...it has good information for those wishing to stop the genocide
against Aryans]
INTRODUCTION: Hello, boys
and girls, Auntie Alf here, with a handy-dandy booklet for all of you
-- not necessarily to encourage anyone to go out setting fires of your
own, (something that could get you in quite a bit of trouble as I'm
sure you know) -- but to help us all gain a better understanding of
some of the devices used in incendiary attacks as carried out by the
Animal Liberation Front. The paragraphs which follow will describe the
preparation of several igniter (or "first fire") incendiary mixes, some
basic incendiary mixes, and a thermate metal-destroying incendiary.
The subject of incendiaries has been treated much more exhaustively
in other publications. The intent of this handbook is to provide an
introduction to a few techniques. Arson is not always used by the A.L.F.
in the course of an action, but when it is, it can be devastatingly
effective. Millions of dollars in damage has been caused against fur-feed
companies, slaughterhouses, department stores and fur shops, fast-food
restaurants and transport trucks belonging to animal abuse industries.
When incendiaries are used in an action, the activist must make absolutely
sure that no animals, human or otherwise will be inadvertently injured
or killed. A.L.F. activists make sure that all buildings or vehicles
are free of creatures before lighting a single match. On more than one
occasion actions has taken months to plan and coordinate have been called
off in the middle of execution when a night watchman or other person's
life might inadvertently be endangered. Arson is not a tool to take
lightly, and carries very stiff penalties if activists get caught. The
assumption that evidence is destroyed by fire is incorrect. Fire investigation
units will turn up if the origins of a fire appears suspicious. They
possess a large degree of skill and are able to determine the flash
point of a fire and what caused it (electrical fault, cigarette, candle,
spontaneous combustion, deliberate arson, etc.). They can also tell
the flamable substance which was used to start the fire (gasoline, paraffin,
paper, etc.). Activists know to TELL NO ONE of their plans and make
sure they LEAVE NO EVIDENCE behind at the scene.
GENERAL: Good incendiaries
can be improvised more easily than explosives and the materials are
more easily obtained. On a pound by pound basis, incendiaries can do
more damage than explosives against many types of targets if used properly.
There is a time lag, however, between the start of the fire and the
destruction of the target. During this period the fire may be discovered
and controlled or put out. An explosive once detonated has done its
work. Incendiaries are cheap and little training is needed for their
preparation and use. Used in very carefully executed operations, the
act of sabotage may be concealed in the ashes of an "accidental" fire.
Fires may be started quickly and have reasonable chance of success if
the following few simple principles are observed: 1. See that there
is plenty of air and fuel to feed the fire. 2. Use an incendiary that
supplies a prolonged and persistent heat. 3. Start the fire low in the
target structure and let it spread naturally upwards. 4. Use reflecting
surfaces such as corners, boxes, shelves, to concentrate the heat. 5.
Use drafts to spread the fire rapidly - near stairways, elevator shafts.
6. Protect the fire from discovery during the first few minutes by good
concealment and timing. In preparing improvised incendiaries observe
basic rules of safety. Chemicals that must be powdered should be ground
separately with clean tools and then mixed in the indicated proportions.
Chemicals or mixtures should be kept tightly sealed in jars or cans
to protect them from moisture. Damp materials will work poorly if at
all.
DEFINITIONS: Common terms
used in connection with incendiary systems are defined below. Note that
the definitions are worded so as to cover only incendiaries. Some of
the terms have additional meanings in the related field of explosives.
a. Delay Mechanism- Chemical ,electrical, or mechanical elements that
provide a time delay. Elements may be used singly or in combination.
They provide a predetermined, limited time interval before an incendiary
starts to burn.
b. Fuse- A flexible fabric tube containing powder that is used to start
fires at some remote location. The powder in the fuse burns and provides
a time delay.
c. Igniter- An intermediate charge between an initiator and an incendiary
material. It is set aflame by the initiator and produces sufficient
heat at high temperature to ignite the main incendiary. Igniters are
fast burning and relatively short lived.
d. Incendiary Material- A material that burns with a hot flame for long
periods. Its purpose is to set fire to wooden structures and other combustable
targets.
e. Incendiary System- A group of elements that are assembled to start
fires. The system consists of a initiator, delay mechanism (if needed),
igniter, and incendiary materials.
f. Initiator- The source that provides the first fire in an incendiary
system. A match is an initiator. The initiator is so sensitive that
it can be set off with little energy.
g. Spontaneous Combustion- The outbreak of fire in combustible material
that occurs without an application of direct spark or flame. The fire
is the result of heat produced by the chemical action of certain oils.
h. Thermate- (also Thermite) An incendiary mixture of iron oxide flakes
and aluminum powder that reacts chemically when initiated to form molten
iron. Thermate can be used to burn holes in steel or to weld steel parts
together.
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES: The
equipment needed for the manufacture of incendiaries consists of simple
items. They are all readily available. Required are bottles, jars, pots,
and spoons. There should be no difficulty in obtaining any of them.
All the necessary equipment is described in each paragraph dealing with
particular incendiary component. It is important that the operator follow
the directions given in the manual exactly as written. They have been
worked out carefully to give the desired results with the minimum chance
of mishap. Don't experiment with different procedures or quantities.
By its very nature, the encindiary is dangerous. It is the function
of incendiaries to burn with an intense flame under right conditions.
Care must be taken that no fires result during the making or placing
of the devices. There are also other dangers in addition to the fire
hazard. The chemicals used as ingredients may burn the skin, give off
poisonous fumes, or be easily flammable. They must not be eaten. When
handled with care and proper precautions, incendiaries are fairly safe
to make and use. Detailed precautions follow: Preventing a Fire Hazard
1. Fire prevention is much more important than fire fighting. Prevent
fires from starting. 2. Keep flammable liquids away from open flames.
3. Good housekeeping is the fire prevention. Keep work areas neat and
orderly. Clean away all equipment and material not needed at the moment.
Clean up spills as soon as possible. 4. Store incendiaries in closed
containers away from heat. Do not store materials any longer than necessary.
5. In the event of fire, remove from the danger area if this can be
done quickly and safely. Use large quantities of water to fight fires.
6. Horse play is dangerous and absolutely intolerable. Avoiding Chemical
Hazards 1. Wear rubber gloves, apron, and glasses when handling concentrated
chemicals if at all possible. 2. Avoid inhaling fumes. Perform reactions
in a well ventilated area or out of doors because the boiling is often
violent and in large amounts, fumes are given off that are poisonous
if breathed too much. 3. Avoid acid contact with the skin. If chemicals
are spilled on a person, wash immediately in running water for several
minutes. If they splash in eyes, wash the eye in running water for at
least 15 minutes. 4. Clean up any acid that is spilled on the floor
or bench by flushing with large amounts of water. Acid spilled on wood
can cause a fire. 5. Always pour concentrated acids into water. Never
pour water into concentrated acids because a violent reaction will occur.
*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*IGNITERS*
Potassium Chlorate and Sugar Igniter Chlorate-sugar is one of the best
of the first fire or igniter mixes. It burns very rapidly, with a yellow-white
flame and generates sufficient heat to ignite all homemade incendiaries
mentioned in this handbook.
MATERIALS: Potassium chlorate (preferred) or sodium chlorate, sugar,
pestle, glass or wood bowl. PREPARATION: 1. Grind the chlorate separately
in a clean, non-sparking (glass or wooden) bowl with a wooden pestle.
The resulting granules should approximate those of ordinary table sugar.
2. Mix equal volumes of the granulated chlorate and sugar by placing
both on a large sheet of paper and the lifting the corners alternately.
CAUTION: This mixture is extremely spark sensitive and must be handled
accordingly. 3. Wrap 4 to 6 tablespoons of the mixture in thin paper
so as to form a tight packet. Keep the mixture as dry as possible. If
it is to be stored in a damp area before using, the packet may be coated
with paraffin wax. APPLICATION: Chlorate-sugar is easily ignited by
the flame of a match, the spit of a percussion cap or time fuse. If
ignited when under confinement it will explode like gun powder. If it
is contained in waxed packet, therefore, the latter should be punched
through in several places before it is used with a basic incendiary
and ignited.
Flake Aluminum and Sulpher
Igniter
This simple igniter burns extremely hot nad will ignite even the metal
destroying thermate, described later on. The mixture itself can be lit
by chlorate sugar.
MATERIALS: Flake aluminum, finely powdered sulpher.
PREPARATION: 1. Mix 4 parts by volume of finely powdered sulphur with
1 part of aluminum powder. APPLICATION: To use, place several spoonfuls
of the mixture on the material to be lit and add a spoonful of chlorate
sugar on top. Be sure to safety (time) fuse or other spark-producing
delay system is placed so it will act upon the chlorate sugar mixture
first.
Homemade Black Powder Igniter
Black powder may be used for igniting napalm, flammable solvents in
open containers, paper, loose rags, straw and other tinder type materials.
If it is not available already mixed, it can be prepared as follows:
MATERIALS: Potassium (or sodium) nitrate, powdered charcoal, powdered
sulphur.
PREPARATION: 1. Into a clean, dry jar or can, put 7 spoonfuls of potassium
or sodium nitrate, 2 spoonfuls of powdered charcoal, and 1 spoonful
of powdered sulphur. The ingredients must be at least as fine as granulated
sugar. If they must be ground, GRIND EACH SEPARATELY. Never grind the
mixed ingredients - they may ignite or explode. 2. Cap the can or jar
tightly and shake and tumble it until the ingredients are completely
mixed.
APPLICATION: The mixture will be effective for months if kept tightly
sealed and dry. Sodium nitrate in particular has a tendency to absorb
moisture. To use the gunpowder, pile 2 or 3 spoonfuls on top of any
solid incendiary material which is to be ignited. For igniting liquids
in open containers, wrap 2 or 3 spoonfuls in a piece of paper and suspend
it just above the liquid. Gunpowder is best ignited by a safety fuse.
It burns very quickly with a great deal of heat, so allow sufficient
time delay for safe withdraw from the vicinity.
Match Head Igniter
A good ignition material for incendiaries can be obtained from the heads
of safety matches, which are available almost any place. The composition
must be removed from the heads to get a sufficient quality of igniter
material. It will ignite napalm, wax and sawdust, paper and other flamables.
MATERIALS: Safety matches.
PREPARATION: 1. Remove the match head composition by scraping with a
knife or crushing with pliers. Collect several spoonful of it and store
in a moisture tight container.
APPLICATION: Put at least 2 spoonfuls on the material to be ignited.
To ignite liquids, such as solvents or napalm. Wrap several spoonfuls
in a piece of paper and hang this just over the fluid, or place nearby.
If fluids dampen the mixture it may not ignite. The ignition can be
by time fuse, firecracker fuse, or spark.
*INCENDIARY MATERIALS*INCENDIARY
MATERIALS*
HOME-MADE NAPALM This item consists of a liquid fuel which is gelled
by the addition of NON-DETERGENT soap powder or soap chips. It is easily
prepared from readily available materials. This incendiary can be directly
initiated by a match flame. However, if delay is required, the incendiary
can be reliably initiated by a delay system. Napalm incendiary is easily
ignited and long burning, and is suitable for setting fire to large
wooden structures and other large combustible targets: It adheres to
objects, even on vertical surfaces.
MATERIALS: Soap powder or chips (bar soap can be easily shaved or chipped).
Detergents cannot be used. Any of the following liquid hydrocarbon fuels:
gasoline, fuel oil, diesel oil, kerosene, turpentine, benzol or benzene,
toloul or toluene. A double broiler made from any material with the
upper pot having the capacity of at least 2 quarts. A spoon or stick
for stirring, A source of heat such as a stove or hot plate. A knife
or grater if only bar soap is available. An air-tight container.
PREPARATION: 1. Fill bottom of double broiler with water and heat until
the water boils. Shut off source of heat. 2. Place upper pot on top
of the bottom pot and remove both containers to a point several feet
away from the heat source. 3. Pour soap chips or powder into the upper
pot of the double broiler to one-quarter of pot volume. 4. Pour any
one of the liquid hydrocarbon fuels listed under MATERIALS above into
the upper pot containing the soap chips or powder until the pot is one-half
full. CAUTION: keep these fuels away from open flames. 5. Stir the mixture
with a stick or spoon until it thickens to a paste having the consistency
of jam. Do this in a well ventilated room where the vapors will not
concentrate and burn or explode from a flame or spark. 6. If the mixture
has not thickened enough after about 15 minutes of stirring, remove
the upper pot and put it several feet from the heat source. Again bring
the water in the lower pot to a boil. Shut off the heat source, place
upper pot in lower pot at a location several feet from the heat source
and repeat stirring until the napalm reaches the recommended consistency.
7. When the proper consistency is obtained, store the finish napalm
in a tightly sealed container until used. Napalm will keep for months
when stored this way.
APPLICATION: To use napalm most effectively, it should be spread out
over the surface of the material to be burned. This will start a large
area burning at once. A match can be used to directly initiate this
incendiary. A short time delay ignition can be obtained by tying or
taping a bundle of matches around a lighted cigarette. Ignition occurs
when the lighted portion of the burning cigarette reaches the match
heads. This assembly is placed directly on the napalm. Usually this
will ignite in 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the length of the cigarette,
make of cigarette and force of air currents. A duplicate delay mechanism
should be tested to determine the time delay for various conditions.
The cigarette must be placed so that the flame will travel horizontally
or upward. A burning cigarette that is clamped or held will not burn
past the point of confinement. Therefore, the cigarette should not contact
any other object other than matches. In very hot weather, or if the
napalm is exposed to the direct rays of the sun, it is recommended that
napalm be made with fuel oil. In extremely cold weather, it is recommended
that napalm be made with gasoline. The destructive effect of napalm
is increased when charcoal is added. The charcoal will readily ignite
and the persistent fire from the charcoal will outlast the burning napalm.
It is recommended that at least one quart of napalm be used to ignite
heavy wooden structures and large wooden sections. A minimum of one-half
quart is recommended for wooden structures of small cross section.
Paraffin and Sawdust Incendiary
Paraffin-sawdust is almost as effective as napalm against combustible
targets, but it is slower in starting. It is solid when cool and thus
is more easily carried and used than liquid-napalm. In addition, it
can be stored indefinitely without special care.
MATERIALS: Dry sawdust, paraffin, or candle wax, spoon, pot, container.
PREPARATION: 1. Put enough wax in the pot so that it is about half full.
2. Heat the pot on a stove or hot plate until the wax melts. 3. Remove
the heated pot from the stove or hot plate and shut off the source of
heat. Add the sawdust to the melted wax until the wax is nearly full.
Stir the mixture this a spoon or stick for a few minutes, being sure
there is no layer of wax at the bottom of the pot which has not been
mixed with the sawdust. 4. While the mixture is in a fluid state, pour
it into the waxed paper carton or other container. Upon cooling, the
wax mixture will harden and take the shape of the container. APPLICATION:
The mixture can be stored for months without losing its effectiveness.
If it becomes wet, it will be effective again when it is dried. Lumps
of the mixture the size of a fist are easiest to manage. The chunks
of incendiary may be carried to the target in a paper bag or other wrapper.
Any igniter that will set fire to the paper wrapper will ignite the
wax and sawdust. A similar incendiary can be made by dipping sheets
of newspaper into melted wax and allowing them to cool. These papers
may then be crumpled up and used in the same manner as the paraffin-sawdust,
although they will not burn as hot and persistency.
Sawdust, Mothflakes, and
Oil Incendiary
This incendiary is very good for use against all kinds of wooden structures,
including heavy beams and timbers. It also works well on paper, rags,
straw, and other timber type materials. It will start fires in open
containers of flammable liquids, piles of coal, coke, or lumber, and
on baled rags and paper. It is not effective against metal.
MATERIALS: Dry sawdust, moth flakes (naphthalene), fuel oil (kerosene
or diesel oil), spoon, container.
PREPARATION: 1. Place equal parts of sawdust, moth flakes, and oil into
a container and stir until the mixture is the consistency of mush. 2.
Store it in any container that will retain the oil fumes. APPLICATION:
An easy, effective way to use this mixture is to put about a quart of
it in a paper bag and place the bag on the target material. The bag
can be lit with a match and the mixture will ignite quite readily It
burns as well as napalm. If a longer delay time is required, use one
of the igniter mixes described earlier along with time fuse or other
delay device. The time fuse alone, however, will not ignite the incendiary
mix. Where very large wood beams are to be burned, an additional amount
of the incendiary will be required. Two or three quarts is enough to
destroy almost any target against which the technique would be effective.
For the greatest effect on wood structures, the mixture should be placed
beneath the target material, if possible, so the flames will spread
upward. In a packing box or room, a corner is a good place to start
the fire.
INCENDIARY BRICK
This incendiary is composed of potassium chlorate, sulphur, sugar, iron
filings and wax. When properly made, it looks like an ordinary building
brick and can be easily transported without detection. The incendiary
brick will ignite wooden walls, floors, and many other combustible objects,
and can be hidden amongst building supplies at construction sites (wood
piles, etc). This incendiary can be directly ignited by all igniters
listed in this booklet coupled with a cigarette delay or similar mechanism.
MATERIALS: Parts by volume
Potassium chlorate (powdered)-40
Sulphur (powdered)---------------15
Granulated sugar------------------ 20
Iron filings--------------------------10
Wax(paraffin or candle wax)---15 Spoon or stick, Brick mold, Red paint,
Measuring cup or can, Double boiler, Heat source (hot plate or stove).
PREPARATION: 1. Fill the bottom half of the double boiler with water
and bring to a boil. 2. Place the upper half of the boiler on the lower
portion and add the wax, sulphur, granulated sugar, and iron fillings
in proper amounts. 3. Stir well to blend all the materials evenly. 4.
Remove the upper half of the double boiler from the lower portion and
either shut off the heat source or move the upper section several feet
from the fire. Caution: Extreme care should be exercised at this point
because accidental ignition of the mixture is possible. Some means of
extinguishing a fire should be at hand, a fire extinguisher or sand.
It is important to keep face, hands, and clothing at a reasonably safe
distance during the remainder of the preparation. A face shield and
fireproof gloves are recommended. 5. CAREFULLY add the required amount
of potassium chlorate and again stir well to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
6. Pour the mixture into a brick mold and set aside until it cools and
hardens. 7. When hard, remove the incendiary from the mold, and paint
it red to simulate a normal building brick.
APPLICATION: When painted, the incendiary brick can be carried with
normal construction materials and placed in or on combustible materials.
A short time delay or ignition can be obtained by combining a cigarette
delay and one of the igniter mixtures listed earlier. (For example,
several spoonfuls of Sugar-Chlorate mixture are placed on the incendiary
brick. A cigarette delay or similar timed device is partially buried
in the center of the igniter mixture (match heads should be in close
contact with the igniter).
Thermate Incendiary
Thermate is similar to commercial thermite, used in welding, except
that it also contains an oxidizer, making it easier to ignite. Thermate
will readily burn paper, rags, excelsior, straw and other tinder type
materials. However, its main use in sabotage operations is against motors,
gears, latches and other metal targets--to weld moving parts together,
warp precision machined surfaces, and so on. Since it burns with a brief,
almost explosive action, it is not recommended for burning wooden structures
or other materials where persistent heat is required. Thermate can be
made from aluminum or magnesium powder and a chemical oxidizing agent,
as described below:
MATERIALS: Aluminum filings powder or flakes, or magnesium filings or
powder, plus any one of the following chemicals: potassium nitrate,
sodium nitrate, barium nitrate, potassium dichromate, or potassium permanganate.
Although aluminum and magnesium are equally effective, thermate made
from magnesium is easier to ignite. Flake aluminum, which is the extremely
fine variety used in paints, is excellent. In any case, both the metal
and chemical ingredients should be no coarser than granulated sugar.
PREPARATION: 1. Fill a quart size (or larger) container about 2/3 full
of equal parts of the metal powder and the oxidizing agent. 2. Cover
with a tight lid, then roll and tumble the container until the contents
are completely mixed. 3. If flake aluminum is the metal used, fill the
container * full of the aluminum then add oxidizing agent until the
container is 3/4 full. Mix as described above. Thermate in a sealed
container can be stored for months.
APPLICATION: To use, put 1 or 2 pounds of the mixture in a paper bag
and place it on the target in such a way that when it burns the red
hot molten material will run down and attack the vital parts. Chlorate-sugar
and aluminum-sulphur igniters are best for setting off thermate, particularly
if the thermate contains aluminum powder, which is more difficult to
ignite.
Incendiary Device
The following is an example of an incendiary device that is popular
amongst European A.L.F. activists and was put to good use in Holland
against a number of vehicles belonging to meat companies. MATERIALS
NEEDED FOR ASSEMBLY: Empty toilet-roll, iron wire, plastic-wrap, matches,
wire garbage ties, firelighters, incense, tape, 2L plastic bottle, gasoline.
HOW THEY MAKE THEM: 1. Take 3 sticks of incense, and wire the 3 wood
stems together using wire garbage ties. Use some string if need be to
keep the incense close together. 2. Tie as many matches as possible
on the incense sticks, near the bottom of the burnable incense material.
The incense sticks act as a fuse, lighting the matches. Make sure the
match heads are very close together so they will ignite. 3. Take a piece
of iron wire and wrap it around the ends of the incense sticks, with
the 2 ends loose. Make a hole in the side of the toilet-roll, roughly
1/4 up from the bottom. Hang the incense bundle inside and pull the
2 loose wire ends through it. The incense bundle should be secured in
the middle of the tube, and should not touch the insides. Fold the 2
wires, each to one side and secure them with tape. MAKE SURE THAT THIS
CONSTRUCTION IS STRONG, IF YOU SHAKE IT AROUND A BIT THE INCENSE SHOULD
STAY IN ITS PLACE. USE STRONG WIRE AND TAPE. 4. Secure a square of plastic
wrap around the bottom of the toilet tube with the tape. 5. Break the
heads off of at least two small boxes of wooden matches. Take fire-lighters
(the ones you use for your vegan BBQ) and break them into little pieces.
Mixing the matches and firelighters together, put them inside the toilet
tube, filling closely to the matches tied onto the incense sticks. 6.
Cut off several long lengths of iron wire (4 pieces for each device)
and twist them together like this: *(wires are 10cm/4 inch.) *picture
shown here leaving 2 ends untwisted. Secure the toilet tube within the
open wires and continue to twist the loose ends together, tight. Secure
the wire in place near the top of the toilet tube with some tape, keeping
it in place. The wire ends must be at least 10cm long. 7. The device
is now ready, and can be transported inside a small box. Fold the wire
like this *(picture shown) to protect the incense sticks during transportation.
8. Each 2L plastic pop bottle should be 3/4 full of gasoline. When you
arrive at your target, cut the tops of the bottles off with a stanley
knife. Put the bottles under the target (i.e. behind the front wheels
of a meat truck). Take the device and fold the iron wires into their
old position. Light the incense sticks (all three) BEFORE you place
the devices in the bottles. 9. Make sure that the bottom of the device
is not hanging in the fuel. If necessary, fold the iron wires so the
device hangs higher. The incense will burn down and light the match
heads tied at the base. These will flame and ignite the match heads
and firelighters. All of this will melt through the plastic wrap and
fall into the gasoline. Maximum damage guaranteed.
DO NOT LEAVE EVIDENCE! Always wear gloves when in contact with any of
the materials making up this device. Do not leave anything behind at
the scene (i.e. tops of bottles, box for transport, etc.). Never forget
to bring a sharp knife with you to cut the bottles. Always check to
see if there are people or animals in the area or inside the target
who might get hurt by your action. Good luck! This booklet is anti-copyright.
Please feel free to make many copies and distribute far and wide. Remember,
fire can be an effective tool, but must be used with caution. Be safe
and make sure to never endanger any person or animal by your actions.
LEAVE NO EVIDENCE --- always wear gloves and protect your work space
and your materials from hair, fiber, fingerprints and DNA traces that
might lead back to you or your active cell. Good Luck!
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