Q & A on FireFights and Weapons
Taken from Reich Rage S-Zine.
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It seems like every week
the staff of 'Reich Rage' receives countless questions on subjects ranging
from White Power ideology, to guerrilla warfare tactics. Starting with
this issue we are going to attempt fielding these many questions in
the pages of the publication. This will not be a feature in every issue
of Reich Rage, but over the course of time you will see both your questions
and a thorough in the War Cry section. Please send any questions you
may have to the staff of the Reich Rage and we will do our personal
best to answer your inquiries.
Q.) How do I shoot to kill
the enemy?
A.) An enemy will almost
always drop immediately if you put a round into his "Body T" -- that
is, into the imaginary line running across the eyebrows to the other
temple, and from that line down the center of the face from the bridge
of the nose to the base of the sternum (i.e., to the "solar-plexus.")
Unless you are sniping with a high-powered rifle, or are firing while
under fire, it should be done from close up, almost right on top of
him/her, if possible. If it's a stealth approach on an armed enemy,
get as close to the enemy as possible without their awreness. Then,
just leap ahead and keep going until he/she turns toward you. If the
enemy is armed, you must be quick. You cannot hesitate. To be effective
it all comes down to pure surprise, speed and aggression. (When firing
from the rear of an enemy, a round put into the basal brain at the bottom
rear of the skull is almost always instantly fatal. Imagine a horizontal
line drawn from the top of one ear to the top of the other ear, and
from the bottom of one ear to the bottom of the opposing ear. The ears
and the imaginary lines bracket this effective target area.)
Q.) Will I be afraid during
a fire-fight?
A.) Anyone who says they
are not scared during a fire-fight is either a liar, suicidal or crazy.
Q.) What else do I need
to know in order to survive an ambush or other fire-fight?
A.) People have survived
ambushes through pure aggression. When you come under fire, dash to
make yourelf a hard target, get down and crawl into a firing position.
Use cover and concealment if available. Locate the enemy, set your sights
at the range and fire up their position. This is called "reaction to
effective enemy fire." When you come under fire your instincts will
tell you to get down and make yourself as small as possible and wait
for it all to end. Your rational brain will tell you to move, get into
firing position and return fire...that you might as well fight since
you're probably going to die anyway. Your emotions will tell you, "Screw
that! Stay where you are and maybe it'll all go away!" Of course, if
you give into your instincts and emotions you will almost certainly
be killed. The enemy fire will NOT go away and you MUST fight!
It takes maximum fire-power,
balanced with ammunition conservation, to win a fire-fight. Aimed fire
is more effective than simply spraying bullets in the direction of the
enemy. It's a matter of getting more rounds down on them than they're
getting on you -- and hopefully more effectively than theirs -- so that
they either back off or dig their own little hidy-holes.
Generally you will not
want to fire on the run, even though you've practced many times. You
cannot fire while moving with anywhere near the acuracy as from a still
position, and it slows you down. Get down and start firing so that the
others can move up. Fire and maneuver.
You're supposed to count
the rounds as you fire but in practice this is hard to do. At any moment
when you need to fire you should know how many rounds you have left
in your magazine, and change magazines if you have to. Lose count and
you'll hear a "dead mans click." (You squeeze the trigger and the fire
pin comes forawrd, but nothing happens.) In a fire fight counting to
29 or 30 is unrealistic. What you actually do is wait for your weapon
to stop firing, then press the magazine release and let the magazine
fall, slap another into the well and resume firing.
Try to fire aimed rounds.
Pick out one body and fire until he/she drops. Sometimes it can take
up to ten impacted rounds before the enemy will drop.
In most combat situations
you will be using small arms with "iron" sights, i.e., metal sights
placed on your weapon at the factory. Sometimes you may use telescopic
sights, or illuminated dot sights, or laser sights, or even holographic
sights. Whatever tyhe type of sight that you use, you will have to adjust
for arc of the bullets trajectory -- which we discussed about for wind
drift. Wind drift is the side to side effect wind has on your bullet
as it travels through the air from your barrel to the target. Military
weapons sights are adjustable to compensate for wind drift, but the
exact method of adjustment will vary from one type of sight to another.
So, we will not go into detail as to how to actually make such adjustments,
but only how to maximize your chances of hitting your target at longer
ranges, and how to determine the degree of wind drift so that you can
adjust for it. We will also have a brief discussion of the escopic sights
in case you are required to become your units sniper in the field.
Q.) What is the general
rule for hitting a target at longer ranges in a wind?
A.) The general rule for
consistently hitting a target at longer ranges in a wind is to use a
long, sharp-pointed bullet with high velocity.
Q.) What factors control
wind drift (bullet drift)? Elucidate.
A.) Wind drift or bullet
drift is controlled by the direction and the velocity of the wind. A
30 degree crosswind will cause the most drift -- and, in this case,
the bullet drift will be directly proportional to the wind velocity.
That is, a bullet will drift twice as far in a 20 mph 90 degree crosswind
as in a 10 mph 90 degree crosswind. However, the amount of drift will
increase exponentially with distance. Under such conditions, if bullet
"a" has a drift of 3 inches at 200 yards, it will NOT have 5 times as
much drift at 1000 yards. Instead, it will drift almost 40 times as
at 200 yards, i.e., it will drift 115 inches at 1000 yards!!
Wind direction also effects
bullet drift. A wind directly from the side will have the most effect
on the bullet. A wind directly from the front or rear will have, for
practical purposes, no affect. A wind from 45 degrees -- front or rear
-- will move the bullet almost half as much as a 90 degree crosswind.
Q.) Why do we need to know
the technical data of cartridges?
A.) Whenever possible,
we need to know the technical data of the cartridges we use in order
to be more accurate shooters. For instance, a standard military load
30-06 or 7.62 mm Nato (.308 Winchester) cartridge with a 165 grain bullet
in a 10 mph 90 degree crosswind will drift about 8 inches with the wind
at 300 yards.
KNOW your cartridges bullet
drop at variuos distances -- and know your cartridges wind drift at
variuos ranges in different wind conditions. Use the manufactureres
catalogs and loading manuals as well as specialized commercial ballistics
publications for general guides. Know that such publications and mnuals
are not absolutely applicable to every round, since they are compiled
under "laboratory conditions", and each round may vary slightly.
More importantly -- Practice!
Practice thoughtfully. Keep notes. Memorize!! Practice under various
wind conditions at different distances -- practice. Then practice some
more. Then still more!!!
Q.) Could you discuss in
detail the basic riflescope function of clarification?
A.) The effectiveness of
clarifying the target by a riflescope is dependent upon several physical
and technical attributes of the scope. Let's look first at the diameter
of the front (objective) lens of the riflescope.
The objective lens is the
"gatherer" and first transmitter of light. In objective lenses of equal
quality, the larger the diameter, the more light it will gather and
transmit, yielding a brighter, clearer picture. This is a critical factor
when choosing a scope that will be used for dawn, dusk or layered-canopy
environment shooting where ambient light is minimal. The term for determining
the proper-diameter objective lens with correlation to the power of
the scopes magnification is known as the "exit pupil" (EP) factor. The
EP factor of an optical instrument is calculated by dividing the diameter
of the objective lens (in millimeters) by the magnification power. The
desired factor is five, or as close as one can getto five, because the
human eye (pupil) will open to approximately 5mm in the dark or low-light
conditions. Anything less and the eye is not being transmitted the maximum
amount of light that it can receive and process; anything more and the
eye is most often overwhelmed with more light than it needs or can process.
It is therein critical for armorers and snipers to calculate the EP
factor to get the best performance during dusk and dawn shooting of
any scope considered for use in such conditions. As always, there are
trade-offs in making the choice of an objective lens. For instance,
the larger the objective lens, generally the heavier the scope and the
higher the scope must be mounted in order to preclude contact with the
barrel. The diameter of the objective lens is millimeters and is displayed
as part of the scopes designation. As an example, 6x40 designates a
fixed power scope of 6x magnification with a 40mm objective lens while
a 4-12x56 indicates a variable-power scope with magnification of 4-12x
and an objective lens with a diameter of 56mm.
A riflescope tube 1" in diameter
is slightly narrower than a 30mm diameter tube. Hence, a 30 mm tube
will transmit slightly more light than a 1" tube, all other things being
equal. What's more a 30mm diameter tube will allow for more windage
and elevation adjustment, provide a wider field-of-view at any given
power when compared to a 1" diameter scope tubes, and allows for the
use of larger internal lenses.
The higher-quality, precision-ground
and polished lenses with modern, high-tech coatings contribute significantly
to clarity.
In theory, scopes with
a higher-than-five EP factor should not be any brighter to the human
eye than those to be at or near five.
But EP isn't the only factor
relevant to low light performance, and brightness is not the only consideration.
Another factor that must be considered is the "Twilight Performance"
(TP). TP is more a function of overall image quality or definition rather
than brightness, since brightness is theoretically greatest at the lowest
power of magnification. The TP factor is arrived at by multiplying the
diameter f the objective lens by the power of the magnification, then
deriving the square root of the product. Obviously, the highest TP factor
possible with an EP factor five is desired. The importance of image
quality can not be overstated. A bright, poor-quality image that does
not define details such as gender, personal identity, uniform markings,
helmet type, etc; are of little use to the long-range sniper.
{Be verwy, verwy quiet.
I'm hunting wace-twaitors...hehehehehe -- Oberleutnant Elmer Fudd}
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